GOA GUIDE
Palolem, Patnem, Agonda, Arambol, Ashwem & some Anjuna
If you're looking for your first foray into India, consider the hippie trail of Goa. It is a slow, very raw, butter-heavy discovery of a small historically Portuguese coastline. Tourism works in “seasons” so business is only open from November to May, the rest of the year is Monsoon season. You'll be in the know when you tell regulars it's “your first season” and maybe your second. It's hedonistic, yogic, and a touch of magic.
Here is an eat, dream and beach hop guide from South to North of Goa starting in Palolem.
palolem
Be warned, accommodation on the beach is overpriced and uncomfortable. We settled for a beach shack with a sunset view at the most southern part of Palolem in a nook called Colomb beach. It was secluded, cheaper and walking distance to Patnem beach. In Palolem, we found lots of older English tourists who have been coming here forever, one decent cappuccino, decadent food and a good street market with all the hippie things Goa is famous for.
Palolem Beach, view from Chaska restaurant
EAT
CHASKA BEACH RESTAURANT
We kept going back to this spot for the palak paneer (cheese cubes in creamy spinach) and their aubergine masala but mostly for their melt-in-your-mouth garlic and cheese naan. With its location at the northern cliffside point, you'll find the best, most romantic view of all of Palolem.
ART RESORT
This was the most luxe accommodation (read pricey and western) on beachfront Palolem. We opted to hang out on their swing in the morning sun for our brekkie fruit bowl, passable cappuccino & wifi. The dinner menu seemed attractive with hummus plates and mezze platters although a little higher in price, still recommended.
LITTLE WORLD
This colorful find was a sweet godsend. We finally found peanut butter (yes, it's a commodity in Asia) and interesting homemade items like cardamom jam all to be had in their backyard garden space. Chai masala at a whole 10 rupees (20 cents are you kidding me?), the happy rainbow palette, and community board make this worth a stop.
CAFE INN
Hallelujah! Finally, a cappuccino made by a proper barista with an in-house bean blend that had me beelining here every morning. You'll notice this is where everyone has been hiding. With its hefty omnivore menu, you'll fill up before heading out to the shopping street at the top of which it is located.
DROPADI
Don't miss this one. Picture your toes in the sand, cozy candlelight, lovely service and a taste bud playground. We were overjoyed with our paneer aubergine masala, veggie curry and naan (always naan). It was just the Goan style food we were looking for.
DO
At the most southern part of Palolem, over a bamboo bridge, find a good vibes yoga space with a sign that pleads, may all beings be well and happy. Yes, please. They have drop-in yoga & meditation classes, reiki & crystal healing, aura & chakra healing- all the good stuff.
Didn't make it to the space, but it is known to be a holistic sanctuary. Put in on your to-do's. They serve raw and vegan dishes, high vibe workshops (like women's sacred journey by shamanic drum, and so much more here). Guided meditation in hammocks? Sign me up.
patnem
After a winding 15 minute walk from Palolem, past a coconut lady and some jewelry shops, you'll come to a seemingly untouched secret beach town, Patnem.
eat
Follow to the sound of deep house beats and take a seat under Nada Brahma's creamy colored canopy. English owned, this restaurant delivers roasted veggie salads, bean soups, imported smoked salmon and homemade bread. Hearty goodness. Join their drum circle on Thursdays by the beach. Om Shanti.
HOME CAFE
Welcome home. No really, this familial European flair is a peaceful pocket. All women operated kitchen, sunken chillout zone, aubergine-zucchini bake, apricot-almond cake and Chai. I'm sticking around all afternoon. The sun rays permeating through the palms and warm breeze is just what I came for.
DO
A not-so-secret yoga space where babes come in waves to do their yoga training. We loved the sunset sesh in the ocean view shala, tree posing in that golden glow.
agonda
We had our fill of the southern tip and were ready to hop along the coast to a new beach just a 20 minute tuk tuk drive north. What we found was a less crowded and even more raw version of what we were getting accustomed to.
eat
Zest was our home base. Quite literally, we found a sweet woman renting out a room just behind the cafe. Location was perfect and price was right, plus she was in the business of drying out about a mile of coconuts in the sun. To our absolute delight, we were welcome to snack. Zest is all the things: veg, vegan, raw, uber granola. It is a total holy grail for that chia pudding, golden latte, and boho garden space.
This skeptical Italian girl is not about to rave about pasta at some joint in the middle of India, is she? This is the real thing. Homemade ravioli, gnocchi, fettuccini and a choice of sauces like gorgonzola cream, sage butter, porcini & panna. They even have gluten-free options. We ordered everything and did la scarpetta. Delectable.
Stripped down boho tent with an authentic OM vibe, this is your best chai masala spot. Beat the heat with a cup and a vegan gf brownie (made with apple- yum!). A singing circle is bound to manifest so kumbaya.
FATIMA'S CORNER
Loud, local, and unpretentious for Indian grub that won't break the bank. Located corner-side, open late night and #1 on Tripadvisor, this institution is no secret. We're here for the tandoori items, particularly the paneer tikka kebab. Cheese on a stick marinated in spices and cooked in a tandoor oven, it's tender, flavorful and packs that summer grill taste (the only thing I miss about meat).
do
COLA BEACH LAGOON
This hidden gem is almost to good to be true. A freshwater lagoon, still, clear and cool - an oasis. This alone might be worth the stop in Agonda. A little tricky to get to, down a long dirt path (look for signs that say Khola) and then down a cliff you will come to a secluded paradise. A true highlight of the trip.
I had seen an ad for a gong meditation sound bath at a holistic retreat center on a community board and was sold. An experience for the books, we laid down beneath a huge canopy by a sacred banyan tree in the jungle (see it here). Whoa, I know. Being enveloped by the vibrations and frequencies of the gong in this setting is otherworldly. This creative - eco - art village also hosts silent retreats, art classes and more. Just magic.
arambol
Alright, now we're in the thick of things. Gyspy soul searchers and new-age yogi drifters are all here. Welcome to Arambol. It's bustling, famous for its wild carnivals, and defines hedonism. There are also hoards of Russian travelers, and a mix of Israeli hippies (so much shakshuka!). It's a blissed out, namaste hub that started in the 60's and continues a tradition of counterculture.
EAT
First! Eat your heart out Bourdain. Finding this alleyway joint was like winning the lottery. A few plastic chairs looking into a small kitchen, a Russian chef assembling simple but extraordinary falafel. I know, it's just falafel. Nope, each ingredient is delicate and the whole experience is euphoric. Twinkle lit by night and even more charming if that was at all possible. (Update: new location here).
Practically impossible to find but when you do, hello, Eden. Once you walk through the massive wooden entrance, birds chirp a little cheerier, and you can breathe a bit deeper. A huge garden space filled to the brim with tropical plants, an array of shady seating areas including floor pillows and day beds. Atmospheric to say the least, the space brings in all the expats and for obvious reason. A yoga shala at the back, boutique zone, chilled out beats, and happy food; the perfect hideaway.
MOMO HOUSE
Tibetan dude bangs out about a million momos a day here. The cheese one is an all-time favorite - we just kept the orders coming. The taste of love and dedication in each momo is undeniable. Just know, it takes forever and a day to finally get them. Plan ahead, take a shopping stroll while you wait.
THANK YOU ARAMBOL
This is the only place we found proper chai masala in Arambol (it's all over south India but not so much here). It has an easy vibe and run by young Indian artists who built this place with heart. Small, simple and they have peanut butter. See the menu here.
DREAMLAND
Italian owned, this is the only cappuccino in Arambol. A morning ritual, share communal floor seating (here is where I learned about all that "seasons" talk) and order that dependable fruit bowl. Their paninis pack impressive imported ingredients and the community board is also worth a gander. See the menu here (no prices).
(NOW CALLED SAMANTHA LOUNGE)
This is quite a little known discovery where slow loving is defined. Vegan food only, rejoice with tofu feta, brown millet tortilla wraps, and raw hummus. Pure nourishment.
do
A gypsy dreamscape conveyed by the name alone, Magic Park takes bohemian to new heights. By day, a yoga ashram & healing arts center, by night a candlelit garden lair with fire dances, shamanic jazz, and bhajan circles (spiritual songs). Not to be missed.
Tucked down a laneway from the shopping street, peaceniks unite at this vegan, gf lounge spot and music venue (no alcohol is served). They host live music every night, gypsy musicians from all over the world give from their hearts. Bonfire included.
KALACHA BEACH & SWEET LAKE
Even if you're not a huge lake person (I prefer to see what i'm swimming in) the walk to Kalacha beach and adjacent sweet lake is an enjoyable discovery of small alley shops and gemstone jewelers. From the southern most part of Arambol beach, you walk up to the shops and follow the path all the way.
PARADISE BEACH
Now this a beach! About 20 minutes from Arambol, scoot to paradise and swim in the nicest ocean waters we found in all of Goa. No restaurants or businesses on the beach, this place is pristine. Blissfully, we tumbled about in clean waves until we ran out to see what appeared to be a camel in the distance. Yup, a camel. He's paraded up and down the beach for rides but we just marveled.
ashwem
A hop away from Arambol is Ashwem Beach, good for a day trip. It's a little more chic, lined with boutiques (some by famous rock star daughters), resorts and upscale sun lounging.
JADE JAGGER BOUTIQUE & BEACH RENTAL
In truth, I only came to Ashwem to find this "life goals" rental property owned by Mick Jagger's kin. I figured if it will alluring enough for a rock star daughter then surely, there was something to find. Her boutique carries colorful trends and soft fabrics but her rental is what blew me away. Centered around daybeds and hanging lights with additional lounging on a second floor terrace, this space was feminine and globally styled (more photos here). This architectural digest article says it all. (Sadly, it has since been sold and can be rented via airbnb here.)
LAURENCE DOLIGÉ ONE BEDROOM RENTAL
Just next door, I stumbled upon this monochrome, one bedroom retreat that happens to be owned by french designer Laurence Doligé. Alfresco living with a kitchen made Indian stone, that Doligé attests, "turns jet black with a little coconut oil". Full article and photos on Lonny Magazine here.
MAA CAFE
Mama mia. Maa meaning Mom, is something to write home about. Raw food that is so decadent in taste, it will change your view of raw food forever. Part of Leela Cottages, this chef prepares with so much attention and refinement it's impossible to forget. Cutlery is made of coconut extract, plates of raw mud, and the tofu and tempe is homemade. Not only does Maa tick all the boxes, it hits record sustainability.
For next time...
PINK ORANGE/ LA PLAGE/ VAAYU WATERMAN’S VILLAGE
ANJUNA
Anjuna is a trip on its own. World class dining, high-end shopping and nightlife but the real thing that brought me here was the famous Anjuna flea market.
ANJUNA MARKET
This market was one of the first things that intrigued me about Goa. It's exemplary of the hippie culture that has continued for decades. A labyrinth of endless stalls by Indian vendors and some expats too. Vibrant colors throughout and an especially high energy- prepare for some over-stimulation. My picks: embroidered pillows and blanket covers, tribal textile bags (a dying traditional technique), crystals, gemstones, and silk . Remember to bargain hard!
TANTRA BEACH SHACK AND HUTS
Cross your fingers and snag a top deck bed zone with beach views at Tantra. Being steps away from the market, this hangout is ideal for a respite from the shopping. Order lassis and watch the sun go down.
EPILOGUE
Goa is a tourist attraction, make no mistake. It is a relatively easy travel experience compared to the rest of India (that was the appeal). I was pleasantly surprised by the interactions I would have with young Indians who were attuned to universal consciousness and I always left the conversation with something powerful. India takes a lifetime to discover and this is just the start. The sun was hot and the sky dreamily hazy (due to pollution but whatever), and at dusk, the sun went down full and neon orange all the way into the sea. The nights were balmy and sticky. Don't pack your best clothes- they will be covered in orange dust and wither away. There is little to no internet connection so good luck loading your pins. Digi nomads refrain. Cows in India are the sacred symbol of divine bounty. They roam the streets and chill on the beach. It takes ages to get anywhere, plan (or don't plan) ahead. The present moment is forced upon you here, savor it.
Here are two of my fave blog posts about Goa and India - cherry blossom girl / the travelling light
Melissa
xx